Tuesday, June 11, 2024

Elite Championship Eligibility

 



When I started this blog, I had no idea how much there was to write about. But I keep running into parts of the climbing sport that are a mystery to us parents.

Take this whole eligibility thing and earning points. As I am finding out,  the point system is used to determine a climber's eligibility for Open Nationals which is now officially called Elite Nationals. Now there are many ways to qualify but the route Brendan is taking is through the North American Cup series.

According to the USA Climbing 2023 - 2024 Rule Book the following chart will be used to award points for eligible events including World Cups, North American Cup Series, and other pathways. (More on other pathways in a moment.)



If your climber does an eligible event, check THIS page and select the following to find out their rankings and points:





It will bring you to a Google document that is updated after every eligible event:




The other pathways to Elite Nationals include spots in several Youth categories. They haven't been determined at the time of this writing since Youth Nationals has not happened yet. See below...



Once your climber has qualified either in the top 100 eligible ranked spots or through the other pathways of qualification, they are invited to the YETI Elite National event in mid-October. 

Well, that's it so far. I will write another post on Open Nationals if we reach the next level. For now...                    
Don't forget to check out your climber's stats at the Competition Database HERE.




                        CLIMB ON!







Saturday, June 8, 2024

BIPOC and other specialty climbing groups



Instagram is an amazing thing. Just when I think I'm all alone in my ideas, I find someone else on social media doing the same things I am. Climbing can be intimidating and it is well known to lack diversity of all kinds. That, thankfully, is changing, but not as fast as I would like. 

But why is this? Again, my ignorance as to why the sport looks the way it does made me want to know more. The reason stems back to our national history. Here is an article if you are interested in the history of climbing and how it had limited access for BIPOC people and other groups.

Amazingly, you can find just about any type of climbing group on Instagram. It can be really intimidating when you are the only person of color/orientation/disability in a gym and you don't know anyone to ask for help. Many groups have meet-ups specifically to help new climbers access and learn the knowledge of climbing. I can't wait to meet up with the folks in Fort Collins when I visit Brendan at CSU!

                        CLIMB ON!


Check out these groups on Instagram!

Climbers of color

Cruxing in Color

Climbing 4 Change - Kai Lightner

Bipoc Mountain Collective

Bipoc Beta

Ladies climbing coalition 

Kinship Climbing Collective

Co Black Packers

Trail Mixed Collective

Melanin Basecamp

Brown Girls Climb

Brown Girl Outdoor World

Color The Trails

Black girls trekking 

Black_people_hike

Outdoor Asian

Asian vibes in Denver

Outdoor Asian Colorado

Latin Outdoors Colorado

Front Range Queer Climbers

Queer Climbers Network

Every BD climbs

NACS - Go Pro Games: Vail, Colorado

 




Since we found ourselves in Colorado for orientation at Colorado State University, Brendan and a friend decided to head over to Vail and compete in the NACS - Go Pro Games competition in Bouldering. 

This competition was in the red point format. There were eight problems and all competitors had to stand in a line for the chance at each. Two competition rounds lasted three hours. Session one was more popular with 125 competitors. Round two had about 80. Brendan chose the first session, but it was cooler during the second session. However, there was less chalk on the holds during the first session. All athletes get a goodie bag and entrance to the Athlete lounge with two tickets they are provided, so be sure your climber doesn't lose them. The goodie bag is pretty 'sick' as any climber would say.

As for as advancement, here are the requirements in a NACS setting:

  • Top 24 climbers from the Quals go on to Semis
  • Top 8 climbers from Semis move on to Finals

Spectating for the audience was brutal but with pictures of the event, I had a feeling it would be. The stage is set up at 8,200 feet at the base of a mountain right next to Gondola One. There is no cover and the sun is brutal. And there are occasional rain showers that come out of nowhere with the sun returning shortly afterwards. So be sure to bring sunscreen, a big umbrella if you can, a lawn chair, and a jacket. I brought lunches in an insulated lunch box that lasted all day. Water bottles can be refilled in the restroom building directly behind the lawn. UPDATE: if you watch finals or plan to be in town after the sun sets, dress warmly! I was so cold, that I had to watch finals on YouTube. (*Smacks forehead*) The mountain can have wildly fluctuating weather (finals got pushed back two hours due to thunderstorms). Next time I'm going to have 2 outfits in the car; hot and cold/rainy!

Parking is interesting... All parking structures are free during the Games but getting a spot takes some effort. A good game plan is to come early in the morning and stay all day. The Vail Parking Structure is the closest to all the events but fills up quickly. There is an additional garage on the other side of the resort called the Lions Head Parking Structure. How to find them? Put ‘Vail Parking Structure’ into your Apple Maps and it will take you right there! Love Apple Maps…sorry Google.

Now for accommodations...We stayed in a cute little town called Minturn, but I think next time, I am going to look for something in Avon. There are way more amenities there. But Minturn was very artsy and picturesque. It is at the base of a couple small peaks next to the Eagle River...very scenic.

Lastly, the elevation is a killer. Sitting at the venue next to Gondola One is exactly 8,200 feet. I started to get a headache while in Fort Collins but it only intensified when I got to Vail. After a couple of days, it subsided but the altitude will get your attention. Drink lots of water and take it easy. There are plenty of people selling remedies and oxygen but it will get better on its own with some Tylenol and if you pace yourself. Brendan did feel its effects while competing, but he will be moving here soon for college, so looking forward to next year!

                CLIMB ON!



NACS Edmonton, Canada 2025

  Well, this is our first time doing an International North American Cup Series (NACS).  We find ourselves in Edmonton, Canada, at the Climb...